Winter is coming which means that retinol and skin peeling/resurfacing season is here…my absolute favorite.
Skin resurfacing ingredients
Retinol is one of the most highly researched and well-known skincare ingredients prescribed specifically for acne and anti-aging. Winter time features shorter days and longer periods inside (away from the sun) which makes it the ideal time to use retinol! Additionally, services like skin peels, and ingredients like AHA/BHA, salicylic and benzoyl peroxide all carry the same recommendation. It is time to begin using these ingredients to resurface the deeper layers of your skin!
Now I just recently started a new retinol routine which means that my skin is PURGING and, while it’s not fun, it is still a beautiful thing! Skin purging is a temporary period of a worsening skin condition. Impurities that were beneath the skin begin to rise to the surface before they can be cleared away. Clients who have experienced acne as well as many others have the same concern with these ingredients: they irritate and break out the skin.
A Plea to Peel
Now I am a fan of bringing things to light…and I am a huge fan of this skin purging phase because the goal is healthy skin all the way from the inside/out…not just “healthy looking skin.” In my opinion, truly healthy skin that is well taken care of with breakouts is way more beautiful than a breakout-free dull, unhealthy complexion. Healthy skin that is well taken care of glows and bounces while unhealthy skin that is dry and congested lacks luster. Opting out of facials or services and not using certain active ingredients because “they make you break out” is a foolish and short-sighted strategy for mediocre skin and poor aging.
Studies show that 50% of patients do not adhere to their prescribed skincare treatment, making it one of dermatology’s and esthetician’s largest obstacles. A patient will experience skin purging and conclude “this ingredient breaks me out.” While this may appear to be true, a change in the skin-no matter if it is for the better or worse, is actually a good thing! If this happens to you, I want you to get excited because it means that the ingredient is getting to work! Estheticians and dermatologists generally recommend sticking with a specific routine for up to two months in order for the client to actually experience the maximum benefit from using a product, and it is especially true with retinol or another exfoliating ingredient.
As humans, we loooveeeee to be comfortable. And this love affair with comfort will keep us on the couch sedated and eating extra salty popcorn for as long as we will allow it… and it will hold us back from having the most beautiful healthy skin that everyone deserves! In the spectrum of human experience (1 being the worst day of your life, 10 being the absolute best day), we are so afraid of experiencing the 1’s that we work really hard to stay around a 3, 4, 5. We settle for mediocrity so that we can avoid pain. Don’t settle for ordinary skin this season! I want to challenge you to upgrade your routine so that you can upgrade your skin!
Things like skin peels, retinol routines, and facials all apply in this category. We have to be willing to get a little bit uncomfortable before we can have the gorgeous glassy skin we desire.
With that being said, here are some tips for dealing with the skin purging phase and coming out victorious on the other side.
How to get through the uncomfortable phase
Change one ingredient at a time - Changing everything at once is tempting but I recommend only changing one ingredient at a time. This way you will know exactly what is working and what isn’t. Skincare is all about trial and error, and what is going to work specifically for YOUR skin - not what works for that one influencer from LA.
Continue to wear daily sunscreen and reapply every 2 hours - Don’t forget about the REAPPLICATION of sunscreen. There are so many ways to do it! My favorite way to reapply is with a beauty blender on top of my makeup and skin care. There are also powder sunscreen options.
Don’t treat only your face - Your décolleté, chest, tops of your boobies, hands, ears, and shoulders are all areas that need daily care and will show signs of aging.
Use a gentle non comedogenic cleanser - If you are starting to use retinol or another active ingredient such as BHA/AHA, going in for a peel, or even salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, balance out the powerful ingredient with a cleanser that has a simple and safe ingredient list.
Be patient - Like I said, derms and estie’s generally recommend you try a product for up to two months to see the maximum benefit from that product. If you are starting a new product, expect there to be a period where your skin gets worse before it gets better
Don’t pick at your skin - Believe me, as a person who literally pops pimples for a living, I know that this one is hard. But if you leave any new breakouts, they will actually clear quicker and with less scarring and hyperpigmentation than when you began.
A quick caveat:
Now there is a difference between purging and peeling and skin irritation/adverse reactions. Skin purging usually occurs where the ingredient was applied while indications of an allergic or adverse reaction will cause bumps in other places such as your eyelids or tips of the nose. Skin peeling is normal, while your skin being raw to the touch could be a sign to back off of a product. Swelling of the eyes and face is an indication of an allergic reaction. Always check with your doctor if experiencing adverse reactions. Consulting with an esthetician will help guide you through this process!
Happy and clear skin is right around the corner! Just stick with it and a new and more beautiful complexion is on the way!